An Overview of Jamdani Saree in Bangladesh
“Jamdani Saree” is a product of hand-loom and made up of generally cotton. The concept of Jamdani saree is mainly came from the idea of Muslin, another super thin and soft fabric of Bangladesh. There are some kinds of jamdani like figured or flowered jamdani and fabricated jamdani.But whatever may be the kind jamdani is undoubtedly the best cotton weaved hand loom saree or product in Bangladesh. The word Jamdani is of Persian origin, deriving from ‘Jam’, meaning flower, and ‘Dani’, a vase or a container.
An awesome Jamdani saree
History of Jamdani Saree
Jamdani which is one of the finest muslin textile is mainly originated from Bangladesh. The people of Bangladesh are making Jamdani for centuries. It is one of the most time and labor-intensive forms of weaving hand loom weaving.
Under British colonialism, the Bengali jamdani and muslin industries rapidly declined due to colonial import policies favoring industrially manufactured textiles. In more recent years, the production of jamdani has witnessed a revival in Bangladesh. The traditional art of weaving jamdani has been declared by UNESCO as a Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity
Weaving of Jamdani Saree
Jamdani is a woven fabric mainly produced from cotton. Certainly it is one of the most beautiful varieties of the finest muslin. It has been spoken of as the most artistic textile of the Bangladeshi weaver. Traditionally it is woven around Dhaka, Bangladesh. Jamdani is fabulously rich in motifs.
Weaving of jamdani
In Bangladesh, weavers use fine Egyptian cotton, but the Indian weavers use only indigenous raw material. The single warp is usually ornamented with two extra weft followed by ground weft. The Dhakai Jamdani is woven painstakingly by hand on the old fashioned Jala loom, and many take even up to one year to weave a single sari. It feels supple to the touch and drapes gently to reveal the contours of the wearer.
The original Bangladeshi sari is almost invariably on a beige background, but new designs are more adventurous. The gossamer thin black Jamdani with its splash of multi colored linear or floral motifs sprinkled generously all over the body and border and crowned with an exquisitely designed elaborate pallu is a feast for the eyes.
Red colored beautiful Jamdani
Jamdani is a fine muslin cloth on which decorative motifs are woven on the loom, typically in grey and white. Often a mixture of cotton and gold thread were/was used.
In Jamdani saree motif is mainly used in its borders, body and pallav. Great skill is required for motif purpose. First the motif is drawn on graph paper, the size of the motif varies depending on the count, if the count is fine, the design on the graph paper is big, and if the count is coarse the design is small. Only new motifs are drawn on the graph paper. Traditional motifs are executed from memory.
Different designed motif for jamdani
Manufacturing Area in Bangladesh
In Bangladesh Jamdani is mainly weaved in Narayangonj near Dhaka.In Sonargaon in Narayanganj there is also one market where the jamdani is sold in the very early morning.On that market in Sonargaon the weavers gather in the very early morning and sell jamdani saree in a very low price.Though,they sell a large number of jamdani saree over there but still the price they get is very low in comparison to their hard labor.
But this jamdani saree price gets very high when it is displayed in a showroom in the market.There is a renowned place where you will get a lot of jamdani collection in the city of Dhaka.
Market of Jamdani in Bangladesh
Jamdani saree is available in Bangladeshi renowned fashion house showroom. There is a renowned place where you will get a lot of jamdani collection in the city of Dhaka. Hokers Markets near Dhaka new market is a nice place to buy jamdani saree because there is a huge collection and the price are also reasonable.
Another market is Benarosi Polli in Mirpur, Dhaka, Here also a lot of Jamdani saree is available.
Mirpur Benarasi palli
Present Situation of Jamdani in Bangladesh
For being low salary many weavers do not want their children to come to this profession. For many, the garments industry offer a lucrative alternative.
But, the government and other organizations are trying to revive the old glory of Dhakai Jamdani. A Jamdani Palli has been established near Dhaka. Jamdani, one of the oldest forms of cottage industry in Bangladesh, was once was a dying trade. Organizations like Radiant Institute of Design, Shanto Mariam University of creative technology,National Institute of Design (NID) and others are helping designers create new Jamdani designs.
Jamdani has never gone out of style. Even today, Jamdani is equally valued It has and it always will symbolize aristocracy. The demand for quality Jamdani Sarees have increased exponentially over the years.
Exporting of Jamdani
Bangladesh’s Jamdani sarees are gaining popularity among the fashion-loving Indian women though they have rich tradition in the fashion world, market operators said.Bangladesh is exporting fine quality Jamdani sarees to a number of countries including India, Italy, USA, Canada and the Middle Eastern countries.
Of them, 80 percent goes to India alone.
Bangladesh’s export of Jamdani sarees to India was $6.12 million in 2010-11 fiscal year (FY) against its export worth $1.49 million in FY 2008-09, according to data of the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB).
The country has exported Jamdani sarees worth $5.21 million during the first ten months of the FY’12 to India, the EPB data showed.The total export of Jamdani sarees was $4.84m in FY09, $6.0 million in FY’10 and in FY’11 it was $10.41 million. The first ten months’ export of the product is $9.80 million.
Export of Jamdani sarees to India has increased more than four times during the last three years, they added.
Current problem and future scope of Jamdani in Bangladesh
According to a national daily, a senior taanti or “ostad” earns about Tk 2,500 to Tk 3,000 per month. Junior weavers get much less, around Tk 1,600. As a result many weavers do not want their children to come to this profession. For many, the garments industry offer a lucrative alternative. So, this a point to be noticed to be with Jamdani in future long time. Without we have to also keep an eye over raw materials collection. Because of weak backward linkage we are going to be in back lined day by day.
If we can overcome all problems related Jamdani then we can expect that it can be one of our great export product from Bangladesh.