Costume Components for Men in New Look & Beyond (1947-1964)
Dept. of Fashion Design
KCC Women’s College (Affiliated by Khulna University),
Costume for men : 1947-1964
The major elements of Costume Component for Men immediately after the war showed no significant changes, styles made no radical departures from those of the wartime period and before.
Costume component for men:
Undergarments : Boxer shorts, jockey-type shorts, athletic shirts and T-shirts remained much the same, but the variety of fabrics and colors in which these items were manufactured and increased.
Business suits : 1940s
broad-shouldered jackets had lapel with a long roll. Double-breasted suits predominated. Jackets were somewhat longer than during wartime years.
Pants : After wartime restrictions were lifted in the United States in 1945, most pants legs were cuffed.
Shirts : These tended to have wide collars. Cotton shirts had long, also had nylon shirts.
Business suits : 1950s
The Edwardian influences, evident in the Teddy boy styles, moved mainstream menswear away from the English drape cut. The outcome was a suit with less padding in the shoulders and narrower silhouette. Single-breasted styles were prevailed. Dark gray (called charcoal) was the most popular shade.
It was the shirts worn with the gray flannel suits that provided touches of color – sometimes pink or light blue. Shirts most often had small collars either buttoned-down style or they were fastened together under the tie with tie pins.
Business suits : Later 1950s and early 1960
Suits altered in cut, as men abandoned the gray flannel suit. Fashion writers the new suits with shorter jackets, a closer fit through the torso and rounded, cut-away jackets fronts, continental suits.
Broad-shouldered styles of the late 1940s and made coat with trimmer, narrower lines. Some styles specific styles included tan polo coats, tweed, checked and small-patterned fabric coats and raglan-sleeved coats. In the late 1950s wraparound, belted coats were revived.
Coats for casual wear were made in great variety. Generally either hip or waist length, made in light or heavy weight fabrics set in raglan sleeves with buttoned or zippered closings. Casual coats were made in a variety of sturdy fabrics.
Generally evening wear consisted tuxedos or dinner jackets. White dinner jackets were worn in summer. About 1950s a light blue dinner jackets in a color called French blue was noted.
Sports jackets :
Sports jackets reflected the cut of business suits. During the gray flannel era sports jackets of tartan plaids were popular. Leather-buttoned corduroy jackets, checked, plaid and Indian madras plaids were also fashionable.
Casual trousers (slacks) :
In the 1950s casual trousers were slim and straight made with a small belt. In the late 1950s, self-belts and belt-less trousers were worn.
About 1954s Bermuda or walking shorts, formerly worn in the 1930s were revived for general sportswear, combined with knee-length stockings.
Sports shirts :
In the immediate postwar period sports shirts reflected the wide-collared styling of more formal shirts. They were made in bright colors.
Sleepwear : In the postwar period men preferred pajamas to night-shirts.
Hair and headdress:
After World War ll, some men continued to wear short crew cuts like those given to soldiers. When hair was cut flat on top, it was called a flat top. Crew cuts and duck’s ass or D.A. were worn by younger and also older men.
Straw hats for summer followed the lines of the fedora hat brims decreased in size. The sports hat included the tyrolean hat, flat crowned cap, pork pie hat, classic, classic bowler hat etc.
These were made of synthetic fibers made possible. These were available in a variety of patterns and styles.
Different types of leather are used, the color and style detailing, the same type of shoes could be used by manufacturers to make shoes for either dress or casual wear. White buck-skin shoes known as white bucks were part of the uniform of casual clothing for college students.
For men accessories were limited to functional items : wrist-watch, handkerchiefs, umbrellas etc.
Jewelry such as rings, necklace, identification bracelets, cuff links and tie pins.