Costumes for Women in the Period of Mughal
Dept. of Fashion Design
KCC Women’s College (Affiliated by Khulna University)
Mughal period (1526-1857) was one of the most popular empire in india. They are living more luxurious and relaxed life. They are very interested about art, poetry, textile, jewelry and highly decorated dresses. They are used expensive and beautiful fabrics to make different style clothes such as- Muslin, silk, velvets and brocades etc.
Women’s costume from mughal period:
Women’s wear very decorative costume and use expensive jewelry in the mughal period. Some costumes of women are shortly describe in below:
Loose jama-like robe, fastened at the front, with ties at the waist. Usually high-waisted and long-sleeved. Sometimes several fine transparent muslin peshwaz were worn, for a layered look. Sometimes a choli (blouse) was worn under the Peshwaz.
A long under-tunic reaching to the floor, usually with short sleeves or sleevelss.
This is a compound of two Persian words “pai” meaning legs or feet and “jama” meaning cover. Drawstring pai-jamas have been worn in Persia since very ancient times. From about 1530 onwards, several types of pai-jama were worn in India.
Cut on the bias, much longer than the leg, so that folds fall at the ankle, worn by men and women.
A triangularly cut pai-jama with a quilted band at the ankle (poncha) worn by men and women.
A woman’s pai-jama made of silk, cut wide and straight.
A woman’s pai-jama cut loose to the knee and adding gathers.
A woman’s pai-jama cut without folds to the knees, and then gathered into pleats to the floor.
It is a singe piece long fabric, woman wore it with their dress.
10. Women’s Head Wear:
In India a turban proclaims status, religion, caste and family. Some women wore turbans in medieval times. Mughals tied their turbans, and then added decoration by way of bejewelled bans, pin jewellery or other ornamentation.
Caps worn were heavily ornamented and in a variety of styles.
- The Chau-goshia: Made in four segments
- The Qubbedar: Dome-shaped
- The Kashi\ti Numa: Boat-shaped
- The Dupalli: Small narrow cap with front and back points
- The Nukka Dar: For nobles, heavily embroidered
- The Mandil: Usually black velvet embroidered with gold or silver thread
11. Women’s Footwear:
Ornamented shoes with turned up toes (Jhuti) were Persian in style, and were worn by men and women. Some others footwear are:
- The Charhvan with a curling tongue fixed to the toe
- The Salim Shahi is decorated in gold
- The Khurd Nau is very lightweight, made of kid leather
- Lucknow was most famous for its footwear in Mughal times, and the art of Aughi, embroidery on leather and velvet footwear, was very popular.
12. Women’s Jewellery :
Ornaments are worn not only for the purpose of attracting the attention of others around but also as a distinctive mark of status, rank and dignity. Indian women, too have shown a great liking for jewellery since times immemorial. The Mughal ladies loaded themselves with a large variety of ornaments. Women like gold and silver for their jewellery. Most of the traveler agrees that ornaments were the very joy of their hearts. Different types of head ornaments, earrings, nose pin, necklaces, hand ornaments like different types of bracelets as churi and, waist belts and ankle/foot ornaments were used in the Mughal Empire.
- popular women in indian mugal;