Different Types of Interfacing for Sewing
Lecturer, Dept. of Fashion Design
KCC Women’s College (Affiliated by Khulna University)
Interfacing is a supportive fabric placed between the facing and garment fabric. It is a third layer of fabric applied between two other layers to provide shape, stability and structure to garments and to enhance durability. It is used in buttonhole areas to keep them from stretching and distortion, in collars and cuffs to add crispness and in facings to give stability. Although hidden from view, it is a critical part of clothing construction. The necessity for interfacing is dependent on garment detail, fabric type and desired effects. It can make the difference between a professional looking garment and a disappointment.
Different types of interfacing:
There are various types of interfacing. A list of interfacing are given below.
- Fusible interfacing
- Non-fusible interfacing
- Wovens interfacing,
- Non-wovens interfacing
- Knits interfacing
1. Fusible interfacing:
Convenient to use as they there is a heat-activated adhesive on one side. This can be ironed to the wrong side of your fashion fabric, giving complete contact. Among the all types of interfacing fusible interfacing are widely used.
2. Non-fusible/Sew In interfacing:
Is ideal for fabrics with textures or that can’t be ironed. It is meant to be sandwiched between layers of fabric and sewn into place.
3. Woven interfacing:
Created from warp and weft fibers interwoven together. This type doesn’t have any stretch, and will work well with any woven fabric.
4. Nonwoven interfacing:
Resembles fleece or felt. There isn’t a grain line, and you can cut it in any direction.
5. Knit interfacing:
A stretchy interfacing to use when you are using a knitted fabric, such as jersey, ribbed, double knit, etc.
Interfacing is used to:
- Stabilize and prevent stretching where strain occurs, such as neckline, buttonholes, waistband, pocket edges.
- Add shape to waistband, collar, cuffs, lapels, plackets and other detail areas.
- Add body or crispness in cuffs, pocket flaps, pockets
- Cushion bulky seams.
- Reduce the frequency of pressing and
- Increase life of garment.
Where to use interfacing?
Use interfacing wherever stability; shape or body is needed. While most patterns suggest where to use interfacing, you may want to use it in additional areas. Collars, except for cowl necks, turtlenecks and ribbing, benefit from the use of interfacing. Buttons and buttonholes have a nicer appearance when they are backed with interfacing. Cuffs and waistbands need the support that interfacing can provide.
Interfacing provides stability when applied to facings in collarless and sleeveless areas. Pockets and tie belts have more body when interfacing is used. Other detail areas may need interfacing to create a specific look. Interfacing is applied to the wrong side of the garment pieces in the upper collar, upper cuff and garment front. If it shows through, then the interfacing is applied to the facings.
Select interfacings that are compatible with the weight of the fabric, the crispness needed and the care you will give the garment. Check the label for care instructions.
Hair canvas is the traditional interfacing used for tailored wool garments, but other woven, non-woven or knit interfacings in either sew-in or fusible styles can also be used. If a sew-in is selected, drape the wool over the different weight interfacings to see which one gives the effect you want. If a fusible is selected, test it to make sure it gives the right amount of crispness and doesn’t change the surface of the wool. If you see a ridge where the interfacing ends, either pink the edge to prevent it from showing through, interface the facing or do the entire piece.
Most fusible interfacings will last through laundering and dry cleaning if they are applied properly. Pre-shrink the interfacing by placing it in hot water for 10 minutes. Blot excess moisture and air dry.
Follow the fusing instructions given by the manufacturer. If instructions state to use a dry iron and dry press cloth or a steam iron on wool setting and a damp press cloth, do so. It may take anywhere from 10 to 15 seconds to fuse the interfacing in place.
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