The success of your garment depends a great deal on its fit. A well garments fitting has optimum amount of ease (neither too tight nor too loose) and its seam lines follow the general silhouette of the body. It hangs or sets in a well balanced manner without wrinkles, sagging or poking out.
Standards of a Good Fit:
The factors which determine whether a garment has good fit or not are ease, line, grain, set and balance. These factors are referred to as “Standards for a good fit”. They are interrelated. For example, if a garment has excess ease or too little ease, the grain lines go out of position, wrinkles appear and the garment may lack balance?
Ease is the difference between the actual body measurement and the garment measurement at any given point. This amount varies with fashion, type of garment and personal taste. A garment constructed with optimum amount of ease will be of the right size. Pulling or drawing across the bust, shoulder blades, hipline etc. are evidences of insufficient ease. Excess ease causes folds across the loose area giving a baggy appearance to the garment.
Lines to look for in fitting are the basic silhouette seams, circumference seams and design lines. The shoulder seam should be straight across top of shoulder. The side seam should be straight and must be half way between back and front. The circumference lines include neckline, armhole. waistline and hemline. They should form smooth curves following the natural body curves. The armhole should be oval shaped and should not curve too far into the bodice nor should it extend too far away from the natural joint. The neckline should fit well without pulling or gaping. Waistline and hemline should be parallel to the floor. Design lines such as pleats, darts, gores, and yokes within the garment should be graceful and smooth.
When a garment is worn, the fabric grain lines must fall correctly in the proper places on your figure. The lengthwise grain should be perpendicular to the floor at the center front and center back of the garment. In the sleeve the lengthwise yarns should hang vertically from shoulder line to center of sleeve hem. The crosswise yarns should be parallel to the floor across bust, waist, and upper arm of sleeve.
A garment is said to have a good smooth set, if it has no undesirable wrinkles. Wrinkles are slanting triangles caused by the garment being strained over some curve or bulge of the body. The wrinkles pointing towards the shoulder blade is caused by protruding shoulders; to remove them you must provide extra length and width for the garment in this area. If a garment is tight around its circumference, crosswise wrinkles occur above or below the tight area.
For a good fit, the garment should look balanced from left to right and front to back. A skirt should extend the same distance from the center to the right and left sides. If the shoulder seam stands away from the shoulder at neck point and fits tightly at armhole point, the garment looks out of balance.
- body balance on fit garments; FITTING GARMENT Q AND A; garment fit session;