Create a Good Pattern:
Begin with a pattern whose basic measurements and features are right for you. Measure your favorite T-shirt or go shopping with a tape measure and try on garments, noting the key measurements, plus design and construction ideas of items you like. Note especially the shape and length of the body, amount of ease across the bust and hip, neck shape and width, shoulder width and armhole depth. With this information, you can select and customize a pattern for the fit and details you want.
Tips to Adjust a pattern for fit:
Fitting the patterns takes a little time and fussing. You can continue to refine it as you sew. To adjust the fit, combine flat patterns measuring with tissue- and pin-fitting and make a series of changes to improve the good pattern. How to make a good pattern? If you solve this good pattern making qus, then reed this following points or tips:
1. Start with the flat pattern. You can use the pattern to determine the amount of ease it includes, whether you need to alter it to fit or to compare one pattern to another. Calculate the ease intended for the garment style by measuring the pattern from side seam to side seam across the front and back at the bust and hip.
2. Next, tissue-fit your pattern. Tissue-fitting the pattern pieces, like pin-fitting a garment during construction, is a try-on-again-takeoff- again procedure that helps you visualize the finished garment on your body and further re-frame the shape before you begin to sew.
3. Refme a neckline you like. You can alter the neck of a T-shirt to flatter your face or figure, to update a look, or to fit under another garment. It is fine to adjust the front, back and shoulder areas independently.
4. Shoulder widths vary from person to person. Determine the best shoulder widths by measuring favorite garments and adjusting during tissue- and pin-fitting.
5. Go for a pleasing armhole depths. The depth of the armhole helps determine the proportion of a garment, as well as how it will fit beneath a jacket.
6. Once the pattern fits and you have determined the best length, neckline and armhole depth, the next step is to refme the pattern’s shape.
7. Lengthen the front for tops and dresses: Women’s upper bodies are usually wider in front than in back, so making a garment front 1/2 inch longer gives a smoother fit. Add the 1/2 inch at the bust. For a full bust, also add width at the bust by curving the side seam out 3/4 inch, tapering to zero above and below. When sewing, ease the front to the back in the bust area.
8. Balance the armhole: To balance the armhole means to adjust the pattern so the back armhole is 1/2 inch deeper than the front. This solves the problem of garments that fall back.
9. Refine the body shape: A subtle hourglass shape or a tapered wedge that narrows at the hip is more flattering to the body than the straight boxy cut found in most ready-made T-shirts and patterns.
10. Eliminate some of the fullness across the chest on dropped shoulder styles by reshaping the good pattern, where the arm joins the body on the good pattern front only. During tissue-fitting, make a mark 3/8 to 1 inch from the cutting line, and redraw the line. Always choose a close-fitting wrist. Measure the width of ideal wrist and upper forearm. A model amount of ease is about 1 inch, at the wrist and zero at the upper forearm.