Key Factors of Inspection for Buyer’s Sample Garments
Nishat Nawshin Ruchi
Lecturer, Dept. of Fashion Design
KCC Women’s College (Affiliated by Khulna University)
Inspection is crucial for sample garments because a part from design considerations, there are a number of important factors involved. This is the moment when the sample receives the go or no-go signal and this decision require some practical consideration on the part of the designer or merchandiser.
Key or principal factors of inspection:
The key or principal factors involved are given here.
- Fitting quality
- Viewing the garments
- Quality standards
- Working methods
These factors are described in below:
1. Fitting quality:
There are two basic approaches to fitting quality.
- The one used may be company policy or may be based more on custom and usage, and this dictate how the sample room has to work
- The two approaches are live models and workroom stands.
Many companies produce sample to fit the men, women, and children who will model garments for buyers. This means that the sample room has to produce two patterns for each garment, one for the model and one for production.
Modern workroom stands are constructed according to the results of scientific anthropometric surveys and they embody an accurate combination of the figuration and measurements of a specific population group. In effect the workroom stand mirrors the targeted potential consumer who generally has different physical characteristics from those of a professional model. For practical and commercial purposes, the workroom stand is the principal criterion for measurements and basic fittings.
An integral part of the inspection of sample is the checking of finished measurements. Whilst measurements do not fully indicate fitting quality, checking is necessary especially if the garment has to conform to a customer’s measurement specification.
The checking of garments measurements has to take into account the question of reasonable tolerance which does not have a noticeable influence on the fitting, design, and functionality of the garment.
3. Viewing the garments:
The most effective method of viewing a sample garments to inspect its detailed and general appearance is to look at it in the same way as the consumer does in a shop, but with a professional eye. To started this method very simple arrangement is required:
- A full length cheval mirror should be positioned close to a convenient wall, with a workroom stand facing it at a distance of 1.20m to 1.50m.
- The inspector needs to stand behind the stand, look over its shoulder and view the garment in the mirror.
- The recommended routine is to view the garment in four consecutive stages, revolving the stand through 90° after completing each stage.
- Start with the front view, follow with the first side view, then the back, and finish with the second side.
- When viewing, the eye should move in a tight zigzag pattern from side to side, starting at the neckline and gradually working down to the hem.
- Good lighting is essential and by using this method very little will escape the eye of an alert inspector.
This inspection is necessary for all types of garments because sewing faults or other errors are easily seen on unlined garments, and stains or damages are very noticeable on linings.
4. Quality standards:
The inspection of a sample garment has to be relevant to its price and target market. There is no one universal quality standard for all garments, but rather each category of garment has its own quality criteria. After all there is a significant difference between the acceptable quality of a garment bought off a stall in a street market and that of a garment purchase from a reputed store. In this reason, every buyer send their Acceptable Quality Level range in garments manufacturer to maintain quality standard.
5. Working methods:
This section could also be entitled “the follow-up” because in most factories sampling does not end with the production of sample garments. Checking sample has far broader implications.
Some factories employ the “sealed-sample” system whereby a sample garments is given the seal of approval and marked accordingly. It is then used by the production unit as the standard for quality and production.
A great deal of responsibility is involved when a completed sample is handed over to the marketing dept. By this action the designer or merchandiser has confirmed that the garment meets all the planned, relevant commercial and technical criteria and above all that the quality is precisely what is required.