An Overview of Fully Fashioned Garments
Dept. of Fashion Design
KCC Women’s College (Affiliated by Khulna University)
Fully Fashioned Garments:
Fully fashioned is the process whereby portions of a garment are shaped at the selvedges by progressively increasing or decreasing the number of loops in the width of the fabric.
- Fully Fashioned Garments
Fully fashioned knitting cuts down on the amount of material required to make a garment by eliminating selvage, the remnants that would be left after cutting from a rectangular fabric sheet. For example, a sweater requires at least four pieces of fabric: two sleeves, the front piece, and the back piece. Prior to fully fashioned machine techniques, a full sheet of material would have to be produced, each of the four pieces would be cut out, and the remaining fabric would be discarded. With full-fashioning, the machine produces only the four required pieces.
The necessary techniques for changing the fabric width or diameter are achieved by:
- Changing knit structure (e.g. rib to interlock)
- Varying the structural elements (stitch length, weft insertion, knit, tuck, float)
- Shaping through loop transfer
- Wale fashioning by ‘needle parking,’ and
- Segmented take down for varying rates of take down across the width of the fabric.
These knit options above may also be used to change the structure of each piece to create limited curvature (such as convexity at the bust of a sweater) in the relatively two-dimensional output. A new generation of fully fashioned machines, called complete garment knitting machines, output seamless three-dimensional garments by knitting connected tubular forms.
Properties of Fully Fashioned Garments:
- Have no joint/seam.
- Get 2part in one piece of fabric.
- Labor cost and wastes is low.
- Cannot make in different shape and size.
- Make garments in round/cylinder shape without cutting.
- Fully fashioned shape in a garment involves the movement of a small number of loops at the selvedge of the fabric.
- Fashioning is not done just on the plain fabric, but rib fabric is also being used for fully fashioning.
- The fully fashioned garments are produced in hand flat knitting machinery, either v-bed or domestic single bed machines of various sorts.
- Using straight bar knitting machinery tend to be of few types.
Advantages of Fully Fashioned Garments:
- Shaped knitwear is engineered to size and shaped at the point of knitting.
- It is very distinctive and easily identifiable by the “fashioning marks” which normally run parallel to the garment seams.
- The garment panels are assembled using “cup seaming” and “linking” where usually the garment sides, sleeves and underarms are cup seamed and the shoulders and collars are linked.
- Cost effective (less manpower in design and pattern section)
- Zero wastage (least amount of wastage)
- Get two parts in one fabric.
Disadvantages of Fully Fashioned Garments:
- Low volume production (because of time consuming in increasing or decreasing needles)
- Sealed edge garments or quality edge garments (no raw edge because edges are not being cut)
- The difference between linking and seaming is that with linking a stitch per stitch joint results whereas cup seaming stitches the edges of the fabrics together
- Cannot make it in different size shape garments.
Uses of Fully Fashioned Garments:
- Ladies suits,
- And coats etc.
- Fig: Sweater Fig: Cardigan Fig: Ladies suits
Cardigans and jumpers are produced with variations in the necklines. The neckline could be v, round, turtle, polo, shirt, halter or slash. Three basic upper body styles used in general production are-raglan, saddle and set-in sleeve.