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Production Process of Embroidery and Appliqué

Production Process of Embroidery and Applique

Naimur Rahman
BGMEA University of Fashion Technology
Asst. Merchandiser
JMS International
Email: naime.dcc@gmail.com



Embroidery & Appliqué

Embroidery is the art or handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as metal strips, pearls, beads, quills, and sequin.


In its broadest sense, an appliqué is a smaller ornament or device applied to another surface. In the context of ceramics, for example, an appliqué is a separate piece of clay added to the primary work, generally for the purpose of decoration. The term is borrowed from French and, in this context, means “applied” or “thing that has been applied.”


Product Types

They have different types of embroidery product, such as….

  • Embroidery with appliqué
  • Knit embroidery
  • Woven embroidery
  • Denim embroidery
  • Rubber Appliqué
  • Woven appliqué
  • Felt appliqué

Production Process of Embroidery and Applique

Personalize embroidery with favorite fabrics, prints, and patterns through a process called “appliqué embroidery.” Click on the image to the right to watch a free video tutorial demonstrating this process. Or, look below for written instructions……

1. When you download an appliqué design, you’ll find two files: a dyeline (which begins with the letters DL) and the full embroidery file (which begins with the numbers 25).You’ll use the dyeline file to cut the appliqué fabric to the exact shape for the embroidery. You won’t sew the DL file on a garment – you’ll just use it to cut the fabric. Begin by opening the dyeline file in you embroidering software, and printing it.

Appliqué & Embroidery

2. If you don’t have embroidering software, or cannot print from it, then you can sew the dye line file to make a template. To do this, hoop a piece of paper.

Appliqué & Embroidery

3. Load the dyeline file into the embroidering machine and embroider that file. You can use an unthreaded needle, and the needle will perforate the paper. For the example to the left, there is thread in the needle. A dye line is a simple running stitch outline, so it only takes a moment or two to sew.

Appliqué & Embroidery

4. Once the dieline file has finished sewing, set the paper aside and prepare your appliqué fabric. You can use almost any fabric for appliqué. We’re using a light weight cotton, so we are backing the fabric with one piece of cutaway stabilizer. Spray the stabilizer lightly with adhesive.

Appliqué & Embroidery

5. Smooth the appliqué fabric on top.

Appliqué & Embroidery

6. Spray a bit of adhesive on the backside of the paper template, and smooth that on top of the appliqué fabric and stabilizer.

Appliqué & Embroidery

7. Then, cut the shape from the fabric and stabilizer “sandwich.” Remove the paper template from the fabric and stabilizer (sandwich).

Appliqué & Embroidery

8. If you are planning on using the applique design again, you can store that paper template with the color change sheet for a future use.

Appliqué & Embroidery

9. Next, back the garment with stabilizer.

Appliqué & Embroidery

10. Hoop both fabric and stabilizer firmly.

Appliqué & Embroidery

11. Begin embroidering the design – the full embroidering file, the one that begins with the numbers “25.” For most appliqué designs, a dieline will stitch first. Some appliqué designs will stitch other detail first, then a dieline; refer to each design’s color change sheet to view the order.

Appliqué & Embroidery

12. Once the dieline has finished sewing, spray the backside of the fabric and stabilizer “sandwich” with adhesive.

Appliqué & Embroidery

13. Place the appliqué piece in the sewn dieline.

Appliqué & Embroidery

14. Continue embroidering the design. The next thing to sew is the take down stitch. This is a zig-zag stitch which binds the appliqué fabric to the garment.

Appliqué & Embroidery

15. You’ll also see a satin stitch border sew. This gives the appliquéd fabric a nice, smooth seal.

Appliqué & Embroidery

16. The applique design might have other elements that embroider, too. This bunny has ears, eyes, nose, and a tail. You’ll find the color change sheet is helpful when embroidering, as the fields are labeled with convenient descriptions.

Appliqué & Embroidery

17. Appliqué embroidery is a wonderful way to add your favourite fabrics and patterns to your embroidery. Let your imagination run wild!

Appliqué & Embroidery

Note: you can choose almost any fabric for appliqué embroideries. If you’re working with a high-pile fleece or fur, it may be necessary to trim the nap at an angle (angling inward) after the shape has been cut to avoid fuzz peeking through the satin stitch border.



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