Key Factors that Influence Sewing Quality In the Apparel Industry
Dept. of Fashion Design
KCC Women’s College (Affiliated by Khulna University),
Influence of needle, sewing thread and feed mechanism on quality in the apparel industry:
Influence of Needle on Sewing Quality :
Sewing needle obviously affect sewing quality in the flowing way :
- Needle must be comparable with the thread. Otherwise, sewing threat will not be able to penetrate into eye of the needle. Besides there will be mismatch threat size and groove of the needle . As a result threat will be expose to heavy friction may break.
- If needle is thinner compared to the thick fabric, staggered stitches may cause fabric damage. Besides needle may get deflected resulting in slipped stitch, broken needle etc.
- Needle may get blunt or break during sewing . Sewing with blunt or broken needle may cause fabric damage.
Influence of Thread on Sewing Quality:
Sewing thread has also considerable affect on sewing quality . If thread is unable to generate large and consistent loops , problem of slipped stitches may occur . Cotton thread when wet becomes larger in diameter and shorter in length resulting in seam puckering.
Influence of Fabric on Sewing Quality:
Fabric under sewing can greatly affect quality of seam . Thicker fabric may deflect needle can cause staggered stitch . Slippery fabrics may cause the problem of variable stitch density etc. Feed mechanism can not run thin fabric smoothly causing sewing defects.
Influence of Feed Mechanism on Sewing Quality:
The function of feed mechanism is running fabric along seam line . It comprise: Feed dog , pressure feet & throat plate . This feed mechanism pushes fabric ahead in a pre-determined speed. This is why sewing occurs. Feed dog consists of one or more rows of teeth , pushes fabric ahead because of a peculiar motion imparted to it. Size of the teeth of feed dog varies based on types & thickness of fabric.
Thick fabric needs larger teeth while thinner fabric requires smaller teeth. Fed dog with larger teeth while pushing thinner fabric causes scratch mark on fabric.
There should be mismatch between stitch length and distance between two teeth . If there is no mismatch , feed dog strikes on the fabric on the same places repeatedly causing scratch mark . This will happen if SPI (stitches per inch) is 10 while there are 10 teeth in an inch of a feed dog.
Besides , feed mechanism influence upper lower plies differently causing differential tension on upper and lower fabric. This result in puckering along seam line.