What is Marker? | Methods of Marker Making
Nishat Nawshin Ruchi
Lecturer, Dept. of Fashion Design
KCC Women’s College (Affiliated by Khulna University)
Definition of Marker:
A marker is a thin paper which contains all the required pattern pieces for all the sizes for a particular style of garments in such a way that fabric wastage be least. Marker gives special directions for completing the fabric cutting. Marker can be done both manually and computerized method.
Marker width is normally equal to the minimum width of the fabric. Marker length depends on no. of patterns of garments used for making a marker.
Marker length depends on some other factors. These are:
- No. Of garments produced by a lay of a spread.
- Length of the cutting table.
- Production planning.
Types of marker:
There are four kinds of marker such as:
- Shading marker,
- Non shading marker,
- Group marker, and
- One /two way marker.
Methods of marker making in the apparel industry:
It is a process of cutting arrangement during large quantity of garments production. During marker making, pattern of garment parts drawn on a big paper considering fabric width, garments size ration, fabric fault and cutting table width, length etc. It is mention-able that bulk quantities of garment cannot be cut without marker and marker efficiency is depending on.
There are two methods usually used for marker making in the apparel industry. They are
- Manual method
- Computerized method.
1. Manual marker making method:
This is the oldest, traditional and typically used method for marker making in garments industry. In this processes all pattern pieces made by pattern maker manually and after that fabric need to spread on cutting table and set up all pattern pieces directly onto the fabric layer. Then mark by chalk, pencil or pen.
Types of manual marker making method:
Manual methods are two (2) types. Such as:
i. Marker planning with full size pattern
ii. Marker with minimized pattern
i. Marker planning with full size pattern:
- In this method, all patterns are in full dimension according to standard measurement.
- Hard patterns are placed on paper or fabric and then all patterns are marked by turning different direction to minimize the fabric wastage.
- The top of the table on which marker making are fixed or fitting and the fitting table top are placed in various angle.
- Vacuum system is arranged under the table for suction.
- This method is suitable for minimizing the marker length.
ii. Marker with minimized pattern:
- Full size patterns are minimized 1/5 part by a panto-graph and the patterns are made up of hard paper or plastic sheet.
- Marker is planned with small pattern pieces.
- After marker making, snaps are taken by camera.
- The covered area of pattern in marker is measured by planimeter.
- The marker efficiency is measured by marker area and pattern area.
- Marker photograph and minimized pattern are stored.
Advantage of Manual method:
- It is suitable for small production
- Investment cost is low.
Disadvantage of Manual method:
- More time is required
- High labor cost
2. Computerized marker making method:
Computerized method is the best and most popular method of marker making. Generally it gives higher efficiency. In this method every components of the patterns are kept in the memory of the computer and grade rule is also mentioned. Then the computer makes the marker by its programming techniques. Computer Aided Design (CAD) system are used to make marker.
Computerized Marker paper directly set up on fabric layer. Fabric need to cut According to marking. During marker making, fabric length and width, cutting table size must be taken under consideration to minimize the wastage. Comparison between manual and CAD marker making is huge.
The information of patterns can be stored by different manners. Such as:
a. Digitizing system
b. Scanning system
a. Digitizing system:
- In this process patterns are placed in the digitizing board.
- Every portion of the components are send to the memory of the computer by clicking special mouse around the pieces.
b. Scanning system:
This is special type of machine like photocopier. Two things are done here. They are:
- Working patterns are placed on the scanning glass and then marker is made in a selected size.
- Grade rule is used for making other size.
Types of Computerized marker making method:
Computerized marker making method is mainly two (2) types. Such as:
i. Automatic marker making
ii. Interactive marker making
i. Automatic marker making:
- In this method, computer makes marker itself. According to given commands, computer can make marker.
- Most efficient marker can be got but it takes more time as the computer makes marker with the help of permutation and combination.
ii. Interactive marker making:
- It is a common process of marker making. The operator’s plans marker by interacting directly with the system through a computer screen.
- All the pattern pieces are displayed in a miniature of the screen.
- They are transferring patterns data by the use of data pen or tablet.
Advantage of Computerized marker making:
- Suitable for large scale production
- Marker efficiency is higher than manual
- Least fabric wastage
- Print out of the marker could be got in need
- Grading of the pattern could be done automatically
- Little time consumption
- Can be prepared marker quickly
Disadvantage of Computerized marker making:
- Initial investment cost is high
- Skilled operator is required