An Overview of Pleats in Dress
Dept. of Fashion Design
KCC Women’s College (Affiliated by Khulna University)
Definition of Pleat:
A pleat is any type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a narrower circumference. Mainly used to design a dress like skirts, party dress, bridal gown, baby dress etc. It is widely used in fashionable garments also.
Types of pleats for dress design:
Different types of pleats are used in dress decoration. There are Types of pleats are shortly described in below.
Box Pleat : These are full length,broad rectangular pleats, usually all around the width of skirt.They are seen on the school uniform skirts.The pleates may be shallow or deep according too the amount of fullness desired in the skirt. This is most popular types of pleat.
Inverted pleat: When a box pleat is made wrong side out it is called an inverted pleat.These are often used in skirts.They can be all round the width of the skirt or one in number.
Cartridge pleat: This type of pleating also allows the fabric of the skirt or sleeve to spring out from the seam. Fabric is evenly gathered using two or more lengths of basting stitches, and the top of each pleat is whipstitched onto the waistband or armscye.
Fluted pleat: Fluted pleats or flutings are very small, rounded or pressed pleats used as trimmings. The name comes from their resemblance to a pan flute.
Fortuny pleat: This pleats are crisp pleats set in silk fabrics by designer Mariano Fortuny in the early 20th century, using a secret pleat-setting process which is still not understood.
Honeycomb pleat: This pleats are narrow, rolled pleats used as a foundation for smocking.
Kick pleat: This pleats are short pleats leading upwards from the bottom hem of garments such as skirts or coats, usually at the back. They allow the garment to drape straight down when stationary while also allowing freedom of movement.
Knife pleat: Thin,vary firmly pressed pleats,facing in one direction,they are called knife pleats.Knife pleats can be recognized by the way that they overlap in the seam.
Organ pleat: This pleats are parallel rows of softly rounded pleats resembling the pipes of a pipe organ. Carl Köhler suggests that these are made by inserting one or more gores into a panel of fabric.
Plisse pleat: This pleats are narrow pleats set by gathering fabric with stitches, wetting the fabric, and “setting” the pleats by allowing the wet fabric to dry under weight or tension.
Rolled pleat: A piece of the fabric to be pleated is pinched and then rolled until it is flat against the rest of the fabric, forming a tube. A variation on the rolled pleat is the stacked pleat, which is rolled similarly and requires at least five inches of fabric per finished pleat. Both types of pleating create a bulky seam.
Watteau pleat: This pleats are one or two box pleats found at the back neckline of 18th century sack-back gowns and some late 19th century tea gowns in imitation of these. The term is not contemporary, but is used by costume historians in reference to these styles as portrayed in the paintings of Antoine Watteau.
Sunray pleat: This are thin pleats, placed in the centre of the grment,like the pleats of saree.They are seen formal wear garments.
Accordion pleat: This are permanently pressed machine made pleats which do not go with washing and ironing. They are seen all around the width of the skirt.
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